Author Topic: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK  (Read 9009 times)

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Todd j

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #120 on: July 28, 2019, 09:57:04 PM »
Maybe this will help.  Have you considered having a talented upholstery wizard simple turn your cushions into a wedge?   At least you wouldn’t have to tear that new boat all apart.  Sounds reasonable

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #121 on: July 28, 2019, 10:24:51 PM »
That's an interesting approach - I think that would be expensive, but I'll keep that idea in my back pocket. Thanks!

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #122 on: July 29, 2019, 07:46:57 AM »
Maybe this will help.  Have you considered having a talented upholstery wizard simple turn your cushions into a wedge?   At least you wouldn’t have to tear that new boat all apart.  Sounds reasonable

Or maybe build a wedge/sloped platform that'll just lay on top of the existing bunks for now, and when you think you've got the appropriate slope figured out, then build it in permanently.  Try before you buy....

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Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #123 on: August 11, 2019, 10:25:34 AM »
Did you use a combination of models? From what I can see you used the cuddly cabin of a prince Rupert and the main cabin is a Newport design.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #124 on: August 11, 2019, 01:18:58 PM »
Did you use a combination of models? From what I can see you used the cuddly cabin of a prince Rupert and the main cabin is a Newport design.

FYI - There is no reason you can't mix and match, or tweak the various models to be all your own.  That's one of the reasons for building your own, optimal for YOU, boat.

Brian
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Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #125 on: August 11, 2019, 02:43:24 PM »
DJ, It's neither. My cuddy roof is approximately parallel to the waterline, and that line extends all the way to the aft cabin bulkhead, forming the bottom contour of the cabin. Brian's Newport suggestion shows a forward sloping cuddy (decreasing useful interior space), whereas the Prince Rupert shows a forward rising cuddy more or less parallel to the shear (increasing interior space in what for me is the least useful part of the cuddy).

I came to my design by first determining the height of the bunks, then measuring how much space I needed to sit upright without having to bend my neck in the cuddy. The reason is I plan to camp, perhaps for over a week, and thus ease of moving about/living in the cabin was the governing factor. My cuddy roofline is parallel to the top of the bunks. Of course, I dearly wish the bunks were about 4" higher on the aft side for sleeping comfort so the whole thing is screwed up, and at some point I'll rebuild the bunks and collision chamber to make it the way I want it.

Basically, I used my body as a measuring guide throughout the cabin build, and took 3 days to design the helm and came pretty close to nailing it, so it was time well spent.

I'm out there today moving the transducer for the 3rd time (too high - it's not in the water and doesn't read accurately, too low - it's sending up a rooster-tail of spray creating unnecessary drag).

Also, of note, I'm working on several ventilation issues. Ventilation for the refrigerator, ventilation for my battery to battery charger, ventilation for start battery, and ventilation to move fuel fumes out of the cabin that filter up from the bilge through floor hatches. I'll post some pictures. The take-home is that it would be super, super useful to cut 2" limber holes throughout the length of the bilge (instead of the 1" holes I have), put a dorade box and cowl vent on the cuddy facing forward, ducted into the bilge, and a second cowl vent on the aft bilge/splashwell area facing aft. That would effectively move air through the bilge while running, removing any fuel fumes, which I'm super sensitive to. A small in-line explosion-proof fan in the vent pipe would allow periodic purging of fumes while sitting at anchor.

On the next boat some things will be different, while many would remain similar. Wait, did I really say that??? Ufffff......


Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #126 on: August 11, 2019, 04:52:42 PM »
Thanks Dan. I think I will do the same. I have already designed the under deck ventilation , going with the forced fan ventilation. I am a little surprised you’re getting fumes up from the tank.

Thanks Brian I do enjoy making little changes that make it mine.

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #127 on: August 11, 2019, 05:04:30 PM »
Fuel hoses are permeable, so they allow some fumes. It's not much, but when you're inside the cabin for awhile, the little bit of exposure gets to you. Would love to see how you're doing the bilge ventilation!

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #128 on: August 12, 2019, 08:53:08 AM »
I will be off chartering a boat in the San Juan islands this month but when I get back I will post pics of my ventilation after I install my tank. Dan not sure you saw my post but what prop are you running with?

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #129 on: August 12, 2019, 12:38:31 PM »
DJ, I'm running a Solas Lexor Plus 16 x 19 stainless prop. There's a bit of performance data in my long post I put up a few weeks back after my 3-day trip. That's not the prop you end up with if you use Solas' prop finder, but it seems to be in the ballpark and I'll defer to my engine mechanic's much greater experience bank for now.

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #130 on: August 12, 2019, 10:29:02 PM »
I realized I hadn't allowed for fridge ventilation when I installed it, so I pulled it, added leg extensions (of course each one a custom height to account for the floor irregularities) to meet the manufacturer's bottom clearance, and cut a hole in the cabinet side for the cooling fan exhaust. Works great, can feel a bit of air moving through the hole when the fridge kicks on. Now it should run nicely without working too hard and discharging the house battery too fast.

Also ordered my solar components and am tidying up some other projects with an eye on another trip in a couple weeks to really put her through the paces.

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #131 on: August 13, 2019, 08:18:12 AM »
What is the brand of fridge you went with?

Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #132 on: August 13, 2019, 12:10:38 PM »
Isotherm Cruise 85 Elegance. It's a 3.0 cubic foot model. My primary reason is Isotherm offers their Smart Energy Control add-on, which decreases the temperature of the fridge when battery voltage is high (ie engine running), and decreases the cycles to the maximum extent possible when battery voltage is lower. Savings of 35 to 50% are claimed. Even if it results in 20% savings, it's worth it to me because refrigeration is the #1 battery eater on a camping boat.

Secondary reasons were light weight, good compressor, and quality reviews.

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/products/fridges-freezers/cruise-marine-refrigerators/medium-fridges-65-85-l/cruise-85-elegance/

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/cooling-technology/isotherm-smart-energy-control/


Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #133 on: August 17, 2019, 08:24:32 AM »
DJ, I'm running a Solas Lexor Plus 16 x 19 stainless prop. There's a bit of performance data in my long post I put up a few weeks back after my 3-day trip. That's not the prop you end up with if you use Solas' prop finder, but it seems to be in the ballpark and I'll defer to my engine mechanic's much greater experience bank for now.

Usually the 'prop finder' calculators assume a deeper V, more displacement.  The Great Alaskan series of boats have a modest deadrise and are relatively light.

bd

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Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #134 on: August 28, 2019, 01:28:55 PM »
Installed the solar panels and finally decided on a pot puller.

Solar panels are Renogy flexible panels, which have been newly re-issued after some de-laminating and associated problems with their first series. The striking feature of this new series is their 5 year workmanship and incredible 25-year performance warranty, far exceeding any other warranty for flexible panels, no matter how much money you spend, and these are reasonable. I work in the solar industry which is helpful. I chose to use two 50-watt panels near the radar and nav light setup to limit the impact of shading as the boat/sun swirl around, and then one larger 100-watt panel aft of that where shading will be less of an issue. I almost always take the dinghy down when at anchor, so shading from the dinghy will be negligible when it matters most, which is at anchor. I will install one charge controller (from Genasun) for each panel eventually but other projects have priority. This represents the last of the roof penetrations which feels like a small milestone.

After considering the Electrodyne, My-T-Hauler, Discovery Bay, and EZ-Pull models extensively, I chose the Discovery Bay. I like to be able to store the davit and motor in a locker, because on most trips, pulling pots takes up such a small percentage of the trip time, I like having the gear out of the way. This means I want something easy to deploy and set up. The Electrodyne is just too big and heavy in every way. The My-T-Hauler has a strange line configuration that does not allow hands-free operation plus the foot switch seems fussy for easy deployment. The Discovery Bay looks more finished and I like the line configuration better than the EZ Pull, plus it is available in stock at LFS here in Anchorage. I'm 100% pleased with my choice - it hauled a 3-pot string hands-free, passing knots, and was plenty fast, and quiet. Their 3-piece davit setup is perfect for my needs. Highly recommended.

I took a level reading on the cuddy bunks with two of us in the cuddy and 200 lb of fish in a cooler on the back deck, and the bunks are only about 1" lower on the aft end. Sleeping was not an issue, so it must have been a visual distortion that made me think they were grossly out of level. Thankful to avoid re-working the bunk tops!

Also, at full throttle, I only got 5550 rpm, whereas redline is at 6100, so I ordered a 16 x 17 to replace the 16 x 19 prop - that should bring the rpms up closer to range, and hopefully improve fuel economy.

Finally, I hadn't really thought about anchoring up while halibut fishing, plus pulling a 22-lb anchor and 40-ft of 5/16" chain in colder weather is not going to be fun, so the latest project is sizing a drum anchor winch, probably from EZ Anchor Puller company. Much less fussy than a windlass and all above decks installation, plus lots of people here in Alaska love them.

 
« Last Edit: August 28, 2019, 01:34:14 PM by Dan Boccia »