Author Topic: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK  (Read 4640 times)

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Dan Boccia

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #90 on: Today at 12:23:35 PM »
Brian, I'm quite sure the outboard anodes are tied to the engine neutral wire, so that part is taken care of by the manufacturer. They may not have a direct wire connection, but they're attached to the metal structure of the motor, and that same structure is bonded to the engine neutral bus. For that reason (engine anodes being the ultimate end-point of the neutral/ground/bonding circuit), I prefer to connect the engine neutrals to the common neutral bus rather than the start battery. Does this jive or am I missing something?

For those building hulls now or in the future, plan out your wire runs now! A good one is getting equipment on the port side energized - creating a wire chase while you're building the hull/cabin would be easy, save time in wiring, result in shorter wire runs, and be a lot less work. I would recommend such a chase from SB to port just inside the floor of the V-berth, essentially extending the cabin floor a couple inches into the V-berth space, so wires could be run through the V-berth lockers to the port side.

Djeffrey

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #91 on: Today at 12:57:07 PM »
Thanks Dan, great info, however my head it already hurting and I haven’t even started electrical yet. Going to start reading now, so in six months I will have a clue what I am doing. When you get a chance can you post pics of your components i.e. buses, fuses, that coincide with your diagram. I’m very visual and diagrams sometimes cause me brain strain until I can put a picture to it.  I can plug some of your pics into the diagram already. Thanks again. Can’t wait for the wet pics of the boat

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28 built by Kachemak Skiffs Wasilla, AK
« Reply #92 on: Today at 04:07:32 PM »
Brian, I'm quite sure the outboard anodes are tied to the engine neutral wire, so that part is taken care of by the manufacturer.

 They may not have a direct wire connection, but they're attached to the metal structure of the motor, and that same structure is bonded to the engine neutral bus. For that reason (engine anodes being the ultimate end-point of the neutral/ground/bonding circuit), I prefer to connect the engine neutrals to the common neutral bus rather than the start battery. Does this jive or am I missing something?

Yes, but for all manufacturers and ages of motors?  All modern motors, probably going back several decades at least into the earlier half of the 1970s are done as you describe as far as I know.

As for engine wires, it's OK to do as you have done (as seen in your photo above) as long as both hot and neutral are the same gauge AND the ground buss is rated for the ampacity of those wires.  People generally try to minimize connections on the motor wires because connections can get hot and cause issues, and fewer connections means fewer ways for your engine to not start.  Otherwise you're fine ... I already know you're the kind of guy that'll keep all of the above in tip-top clean and working shape.

For those building hulls now or in the future, plan out your wire runs now! A good one is getting equipment on the port side energized - creating a wire chase while you're building the hull/cabin would be easy, save time in wiring, result in shorter wire runs, and be a lot less work. I would recommend such a chase from SB to port just inside the floor of the V-berth, essentially extending the cabin floor a couple inches into the V-berth space, so wires could be run through the V-berth lockers to the port side.

Good advice!  Read the material ahead of time ....while your epoxy is curing!

Brian
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