Author Topic: Cost  (Read 517 times)

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Madray

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Cost
« on: October 17, 2016, 06:01:17 AM »
Hello all how much is it to build the GA 28 foot just the wood and glass fiber
Never eat yellow snow

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2016, 07:52:51 AM »
Someone who has recently built one will have to chime in, but I believe that just the hull and superstructure (minus windows, fuel tanks, motor(s), trailer, electronics etc) is going to cost $6k to $8k to build.  But by the time you finish that other stuff, the total cost will be between $28k and $60k, depending on how all-out you go on things along the way. 

Anyone?

Brian


Cannon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2016, 08:36:12 AM »
See attached.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Cannon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2016, 08:53:33 AM »
Finished product. Total elapsed time to complete 1 year, two months. Since completion, I have logged several offshore trips of 150-190 miles under various conditions from sunny and flat to rougher than sh*t. Phenomenal design, superior in rough conditions!
The only thing I would do differently would be to use MDO for all of the interior cabin work.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2016, 11:56:25 AM »
Thanks for the kind words......

Looks like I wasn't too far off.  Yours was about $7700 for wood/glass/epoxy plus another $600 or so in paint.  I remember when it would cost only $4500 to do the same... sigh.  Still, it's awfully cheap compared to any other alternative and you get to have a boat the way YOU want it.

Brian


Cannon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2016, 12:33:58 PM »
This winter, or more accurately next spring I plan on adding an aluminum railing at the bow. At this point I plan to have it powder coated. I also will be adding a cross tree and outriggers for my tuna adventures.
Another item I will add are water diverters at the rear of the wheelhouse on top of the sheer deck. When it's sloppy, that will keep water from being blown down the side and into the cockpit. That was a problem with the scuppers plugged, ended up with a couple inches of water standing..then you have to wade back and pull the scupper plugs
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Rbob

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Re: Cost
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2016, 02:18:00 PM »
Cannon,

Nice job on the spreadsheet, mine just looks like $$$$$ and more $$$$$  haha.

I will take your idea on the water diverters and incorporate into my slow build.

The kit price was $5,035 for the hull with versalam stringers and Meranti Hydrotek plywood.  I have all my receipts so maybe I will put it on a spreadsheet. 

Madray

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Re: Cost
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2016, 02:39:15 PM »
Thanks lads just needed to no  ;)
Never eat yellow snow

Rbob

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Re: Cost
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2016, 05:39:03 PM »
That was an exercise..    Attached the file.

Rbob

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Re: Cost
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2016, 05:56:27 PM »
Well that sucked, I missed the Okoume plywood price's  $11,424

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2016, 07:16:00 AM »
This winter, or more accurately next spring I plan on adding an aluminum railing at the bow. At this point I plan to have it powder coated. I also will be adding a cross tree and outriggers for my tuna adventures.
Another item I will add are water diverters at the rear of the wheelhouse on top of the sheer deck. When it's sloppy, that will keep water from being blown down the side and into the cockpit. That was a problem with the scuppers plugged, ended up with a couple inches of water standing..then you have to wade back and pull the scupper plugs

My favorite setup is to have an edge around the perimeter of the pilot house roof that has outlets on the sides near the rear ...but far enough forward so that the roof water drains onto the sides of the pilot house behind the side windows, yet ahead of the cockpit.  Then on the sheer deck, diverters that are behind the roof drain but ahead of the cockpit.  This arrangement helps prevent water on the windows, which may leak into the inside of the house if you keep the tracts full of water, and prevents water from draining into the cockpit as well ... With all that said, the wind can undo all of your careful planning ...hence the need for good water rejection on the sides - splash rails and auxiliary splash rails.  The coaming around the cockpit (see the Prince Rupert model) adds even more assurance at keeping water out of the cockpit, as does a pilot house that's longer rather than shorter.  Decisions, decisions....


bd


Cannon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2016, 10:06:24 AM »
I have a 2 1/2 inch overhang on the roof. Rain falls and hits the sides below the windows. Most of the water that accumulates in the cockpit comes from spray pushed by the wind. If you will recall, I was concerned about the amount of water in the cockpit when I first launched. The water is pushed down the sides of the cabin and into the cockpit. By adding the diverters to the sheer deck at the rear of the cabin, the water will be forced overboard. I considered combing around the cockpit but don't care for the rim which makes sitting on the rail uncomfortable.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Cost
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2016, 01:17:28 PM »
I have a 2 1/2 inch overhang on the roof. Rain falls and hits the sides below the windows. Most of the water that accumulates in the cockpit comes from spray pushed by the wind. If you will recall, I was concerned about the amount of water in the cockpit when I first launched. The water is pushed down the sides of the cabin and into the cockpit. By adding the diverters to the sheer deck at the rear of the cabin, the water will be forced overboard. I considered combing around the cockpit but don't care for the rim which makes sitting on the rail uncomfortable.

I agree ... the diverters will make a big difference.  I do like to sit on the sheer too, and I know that I'd struggle with the idea of putting coaming on my boat or not and to be honest, can't really guess what my final would be on that...

bd