Author Topic: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build  (Read 216481 times)

0 Members and 14 Guests are viewing this topic.

Todd j

  • Commodore
  • ***
  • Posts: 1549
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #345 on: January 28, 2019, 08:00:20 PM »
That is one sexy hatch!

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #346 on: January 28, 2019, 08:08:31 PM »
Yes sir, very $exy!

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #347 on: January 29, 2019, 07:10:43 AM »
I like the insetting better than using U-shaped doublers for support on the inside face of the stringers ... I hadn't thought of using a router, but insetting is DEFINITELY faster and easier than using U-shaped doublers ... good on ya!

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #348 on: February 03, 2019, 08:33:27 PM »
I finished cutting and fitting the deck, and glassed backsides of all pieces. That was a marathon for one guy. 

Do I put 3 more coats of epoxy or count the glass / epoxy as coat 1?

I will move on to the fuel tank in between coats of epoxy. Do I need to close in (isolate) the fuel hose underdeck, pretty sure I must box it in all the way to the shelf.

On another note I ordered my engine, opted for a Mercury Seapro200, it is almost a year out for delivery and may be sooner just have to wait and see.

One more final sanding underdeck and paint the bilge, I am using ebond's 106 white polyamide coating.

 

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #349 on: February 04, 2019, 07:04:23 AM »

Wow!  Nice work!  Let me answer your questions one at a time:

1. Especially if you precoated the bottom-side of the plywood with epoxy prior to glassing, I recommend counting the epoxied fiberglass as the first of 3 coats of epoxy that the bottom side of the deck pieces get.  NOTE that right after this 'first coat' is when you want to seal ALL plywood edges of the deck.  This is only necessary for both deck pieces and the top edge of web stringers that are under the deck - you cannot built fillets that hide and seal up the unseen plywood edges, so you have to seal them very well prior to final installation and the building of fillets on the top side of the plywood.  OK?  I seal edges by first coating them with epoxy (a roller is great and fast for this, even though the edge is narrow) - adding more epoxy until the edges stay fairly shine.  Let cure, scrape drips off the plywood faces if you have them (carbide scraper) and sand the edges - vacuum and/or wipe them off well.  Mix a creamy-thick blend of silica and epoxy and use a putty knife to smear the silica mix into the edges of the plywood.  Use your gloved finger to lightly rub the mix into the end grain and let it cure.  Now finish those last coats of the epoxy, rolling it both onto the fiberglass and the edges.  This sealing works well because a) the initial coat wicks into the wood cells and mostly seals them, then b) the silica mixture smooths and seals the end grain nicely, then c) the final coats of epoxy fill and seal - putting the finish on.  Do this, and you'll never have deck rot.

2. You want to isolate the fuel components from the interior of the pilothouse and/or cuddy - the main issue being fuel fumes traveling around under-deck until they get to non-spark / spark-proof electrical devices that risk igniting the fuel fumes.  It's a safety issue.  In the open cockpit, this is not an issue, however.  Use double clamps on all connections and try to lay out your fill/vent/fuel lines so that it's easy to isolate them from inside the pilot house and cuddy.  Note that 'isolate' means under the deck too.  For example, if you have a belly tank that extends forward under the pilot house decking, then make sure it's sealed on the sides and forward end (but it's OK to have a drain plug through under-deck bulkheads as long as you keep them plugged unless necessary to temporarily take them out - say for cleaning).  Think through your routing of hoses and try to make it simple on yourself ... boxing-in can become overly complex sometimes.

3. A 200 hp motor is great ...



Keep the pix coming!

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #350 on: February 05, 2019, 11:09:15 AM »
I went out last night to put on a fill coat of epoxy and my shop is out of propane!  Shop is cold. I just trimmed all the glass around the edges and ran a scraper over one panel.  Epoxy was a little soft but not tacky.  Since I only have ebonds 1289 (slow) I did not want to use it when it is that cold.  No propane until Thursday.  Just a little setback, I will give it a cleaning and light sanding and start again.






Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #351 on: February 05, 2019, 11:49:09 AM »
On the Fuel hose,  Is it ok to seal the fill hose (vent hose, fuel feed) where it passes thru the stringer with 5200?

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #352 on: February 06, 2019, 03:13:47 PM »
On the Fuel hose,  Is it ok to seal the fill hose (vent hose, fuel feed) where it passes thru the stringer with 5200?

I assume you mean using 5200 around the feed and vent lines where they pass through stringers, thereby sealing the inside edges of those holes .... the alternative being sealing the inside edges with epoxy first, then passing the lines through?  I think the 5200 is reliable enough for that, and it absorbs humidity and seals tighter when it's wet ... but personally, I'd think about fuel hose replacement in the future.  If you glue those lines in with 5200, then they're not coming back out again.  Replacement would mean drilling new holes or finding an alternative route.

Which stringers?  The main LVL stringers?  I'd probably drill over-size holes, then use a gloved finger to smear silica-thickened epoxy into the exposed edge grain in the hole.  If you want to fill the gap around the lines with something that'll let you remove it later, I think marine RTV (silicone) would work OK for that, but I'd seal the grain with epoxy first (the reason for using a slightly oversized hole).  You can also drill an oversize hole, completely fill with thickened epoxy, then drill the correctly sized hole for the lines after than ... just go through the center of the epoxy plug so you don't hit (expose) wood and you're good to go.  Works for motor mount bolt holes too (highly recommended for that)

Am I off track on what you're asking?

Brian
« Last Edit: February 06, 2019, 03:20:16 PM by Brian.Dixon »
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #353 on: February 06, 2019, 05:32:21 PM »
Yes, the gap.  You're right silicone would be better to remove, just thinking about any possible fumes.

Quote" If you want to fill the gap around the lines with something that'll let you remove it later, I think marine RTV (silicone) would work OK for that,"


 

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #354 on: February 07, 2019, 06:08:07 AM »
Yes, the gap.  You're right silicone would be better to remove, just thinking about any possible fumes.

Quote" If you want to fill the gap around the lines with something that'll let you remove it later, I think marine RTV (silicone) would work OK for that,"

Good thinking.  Just either prefill with epoxy and redrill or use a finger to smear silica-epoxy inside the holes to seal the edge grain.

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #355 on: February 23, 2019, 07:18:49 PM »
Gees, I never dreamed adding an insulated fish box would take so long, but in the process I discovered (read the gougeon book) what I think is a better way to add supports for the floor.  Rather than use a router which was easy and fast its drawback is when you glue in the support, hard to keep the goop in there.

Using a fine tooth saw and a chisel & wood file was just probably faster, no jig just saw at an angle and clean out the pocket.  Measure the angle and cut the supports.  Love it and its was super easy to apply the goop and install.

I found some epdm ribbed weatherstrip that had 3m double-sided tape that hopefully will seal the fish box.

 
« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 07:22:46 PM by Rbob »

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #356 on: March 28, 2019, 09:59:38 AM »
Still working on the fish box, the lid took quite a bit of time for me.  I decided to insulate the lid, and being concerned over my BFF's standing on the lid I put in support.  I had ordered some FRP and did not use it so I put it to use.  Talk about overkill...

I have also put down 1/4" plywood over the foam, no pic yet.

I am closer to putting down the deck for good,  need to install flanges for access ports and one more sealing coat to go.



 

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #357 on: March 28, 2019, 10:02:55 AM »
I think that's the fanciest fish well lid that I've ever seen!  Gonna have to call you the Dado Dude!  'Have router ... will dado!'

bd
The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>

Rbob

  • Captain
  • **
  • Posts: 1167
    • View Profile
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #358 on: March 28, 2019, 10:35:41 AM »
I need therapy!

Hello everyone my name is Dado Dude and I am addicted...  I have been overthinking, over building and using too much epoxy again.  LOL.

Brian.Dixon

  • Administrator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 2637
    • View Profile
    • Glacier Boats of Alaska
Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #359 on: March 28, 2019, 12:43:33 PM »

LOL ... Well, if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right, right?  :D

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional performance - Easy to build! - https://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?> ... ><((((?>