Author Topic: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build  (Read 17450 times)

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Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #285 on: May 16, 2018, 08:04:18 PM »
Brian,
Is 2" fillet big enough for the stringers?  I know the manual says 3" on the transom.

I have the inside all sanded and cleaned up, just have lots of little holes to fill and start the fillets on stringers and chines and bow stem. 

I built a stairway to access the boat, hard to climb up and down without it...



« Last Edit: May 16, 2018, 10:53:30 PM by Rbob »

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #286 on: May 17, 2018, 05:18:55 AM »
Yes ... using a 2" PVC pipe (or other form) for the stringer's fillets is fine.  The transom corners get special treatment due to the concentration of forces at the that occur as the boat flexes (think 'hinge').... and I've seen them crack on some boats (but never on a Great Alaskan!).  That's why I recommend large fillets, glass-fiber impregnated epoxy mix for the fillets, and a good solid glass treatment on transom corners.  The stringers do not suffer from this same effect when the boat flexes.

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
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Dudley

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #287 on: May 29, 2018, 06:31:29 AM »
Bob, your main stringers looks like they are higher than the dimensions at the plans. Is it true or am I judging it wrong from the picture?

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #288 on: May 31, 2018, 07:57:56 AM »
You are correct, 4" higher in main cabin and aft.


Dudley

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #289 on: June 04, 2018, 03:53:03 AM »
Is there a specific reason for that which I have to take into consideration?

Cannon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #290 on: June 04, 2018, 08:40:50 PM »
The reason for raising the deck is simply to insure the deck drains overboard via scuppers without using the bilge. Fish blood and scales are extremely hard on a bilge pump.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Dudley

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #291 on: June 05, 2018, 01:34:45 AM »
Thanks for the information. That is a great idea to take into consideration.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #292 on: June 05, 2018, 05:06:33 AM »
Thanks for the information. That is a great idea to take into consideration.

Note that some people even take it a step further and they have added a little crown to the deck (centerline 1/2" higher than outboard edges of the cockpit deck), and / or have added a little slope (f'w'd higher than stern end of cockpit deck by an inch).  These things help the water drain in the correct direction, towards the scuppers.  When the boat is done, you will not be able to spot the crown and slope ... the deck will look flat and will seem perfectly flat as you walk around on it.

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
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Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #293 on: June 05, 2018, 05:08:02 AM »

Dudley ... How's your progress otherwise?  Do you have a place to build?  Have you made any sawdust yet?  Just curious ... it looks like you're cranking right along on the project ... it'll be fun to see your boat getting built :)

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
 http://www.glacierboats.com

Dudley

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #294 on: June 06, 2018, 05:14:53 AM »
I have almost finished all the drawings in AutoCad format for the construction manual 1, excluding the transom. The reason I have not done the transom is because I want to change it completely. So, if I get enough time I will model it on SolidWorks in 3D within next week. And than I will do all the changes that I want on the model. When I feel happy about the changes, I will rework it on AutoCad so that I can cut it on my Multicam CNC with local plywood sizes. I don't have a space problem and have more than enough sawdust etc. Hope to start building towards the end of July, if I can get any spare time left on the CNC from my standard production. I have to do the heavy epoxy jobs before the end of Autumn.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #295 on: June 06, 2018, 06:39:58 AM »
Awesome!  Looking forward to seeing pictures.  It's going to be a great boat, I'm sure ... like the sailboat that you built :)

Brian
The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
 http://www.glacierboats.com

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #296 on: June 11, 2018, 01:15:43 PM »
Almost done with fillets and taping, chines and bow stem are done and one more side of a stringer than on to the bulkheads, crash chamber etc.


I am going with a anchor windlass so will be closing in the top of the anchor well.  Not sure if 1/2" ply is enough so may double that up.


more pics:


Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #297 on: June 11, 2018, 01:37:32 PM »

Yeah ... you're kind of in a stage that ends up time consuming without the work accomplished being super obvious yet.  The bulkheads and house will be more exciting :)

Brian

PS: Your work's looking great!  Nice, neat, professional!
The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
 http://www.glacierboats.com

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #298 on: June 12, 2018, 10:40:09 AM »
Brian,

Once the sheer deck in installed, what is the glassing schedule? 

Quote
Note that not
until the aft pieces are in place will you go back and round over the gunnels and
glass the sheer decking.
   

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #299 on: June 12, 2018, 06:49:06 PM »
Brian,

Once the sheer deck in installed, what is the glassing schedule? 

Quote
Note that not
until the aft pieces are in place will you go back and round over the gunnels and
glass the sheer decking.
   

For any deck that you'll be walking on, use 10-oz woven (and 9.xx ounce is OK too).  No need to go to 12 and 6 is too light.  No need for biax, but some people like it since it lays over the edge smoother ... but if you do that, go light and put a light layer of woven over it, wet on wet.  For example, 6-oz biax plus 6-oz woven, wet-on-wet so the 2nd layer will smooth out the yarn on the biax .... this'll save you work when it comes to fairing.  You want the woven to extend beyond the biax by an inch.  OR .... K.I.S.S. and just put the 10 ounce on, make sure you give the side-to-sheer deck corner a good round edge so the glass will lay smooth.

Brian

The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by greenhorns -
 http://www.glacierboats.com