Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build

[Rbob]

Brian,

I used a brad nailer to install the strake and I put squares of 1/2" wood to keep the brads from penetrating all the way and the next morning I pulled the brads.

I found stainless steel brads 316 grade and I was thinking about just leaving them in when I add the second layer on the main spray rails. Do you think that is a good / bad idea?   

The brad holes left behind when I pull them are small and tough to get epoxy down in the hole so I am not sure how great of an idea that was.

[Brian.Dixon]

Those 316 SS brads will not be a problem in your lifetime or even in the lifetime of your grandchildren.   I'm not against them staying in if you make sure they are well-buried so that the holes they punch through layers of epoxy are well protected.  For example, when the first layer goes on and there is squeeze-out all the way around them (proof of no hidden gaps), and you put the second layer right over the top, then great ... no problems.  Same with gaps around the edges of the strakes where they meet the hull ... just make sure it's all sealed well.  The last issue is whether the brads punch through the hull to the inside and it sounds like you've mastered that process.  As for filling the holes from brads, if you pull them out, just make a mix of silica and epoxy (goopy) and use your gloved finger to dab some on over each hole, trying to push it into the holes.  It's hard to push epoxy into a dead-end hole since air in the hole doesn't want to compress to make room for epoxy.  But do your best and if anything, leave a little extra on and make the bumps flush with a scraper after they cure, then put final coats of epoxy on.  Any remaining tiny holes should seal up just find when straight epoxy is rolled/brushed on.

bd

[Rbob]

Sounds great, the strakes and spray rails are taking way more time than I thought but I keep chugging along. I keep looking forward to flipping which is like a carrot dangling in front of me.

[Brian.Dixon]

Sounds great, the strakes and spray rails are taking way more time than I thought but I keep chugging along. I keep looking forward to flipping which is like a carrot dangling in front of me.

The details get you ... You can frame a house in 2 weeks, then it takes 3 months to detail it out and finish it.  It's the way of the world.... but about 10 minutes after you finish that boat, you'll forget all about those hours and your eyes will be scanning the blue horizon ... fishing and boating dreams on your mind as you fill that tank

bd

[Rbob]

Next time I will pass on using leaving the stainless brads in the outer layer of the splash rails, the brad nailer leaves a wide chisel bit hole so still needed to use a nail set to set deeper after final sanding and this caused more damage to repair. 


Its easier to use a scrap piece of plywood to install the brad and pull the brads, I will say that the stainless brads are much easier to pull.  The cheap brads I resorted to heating the heads with a small solder torch before  pulling because some were breaking off and that was a bitch  to remove the broken ones....  Drill around the brad, use needle nose pliers and vice grips to squeeze the needle nose pliers and heat...



 Onto the Auxillary Spray rails,  I know they start at the front and go not sure how far back, I know Dave from Homer ran his all the way back but I can find anything specific on how far back.

[Brian.Dixon]

Construction manual part 1 of 2, page 110:

"c. All Models (all lengths): The auxiliary spray rails are 12 feet long and are mounted along the chine (see full-size images in Appendix A) starting at about 3” aft of the bow (approx.) "


That said, you can go longer if you want.  I wouldn't go shorter though, since these really help keep spray down near the water surface where it belongs.

Brian

[Brian.Dixon]

Thanks for sharing the details on those brads:

1. Use the good stainless ones since they pull out easier

2. Shoot them through a piece of scrap ply so you can pull the ply (w/brads) off together and leave minimal damage / holes that you have to fill


I've had to dig out cheap screws in the same way, once they break off - I decided then and there that using quality screws, even if they are going to be removed, is the only way to go.  Quality saves headaches... and extra work!

Brian

[Rbob]

Brian,

I see fillets on the fairbody strake and side strakes but do the spray rails get a fillet?

On the water side I made drawing of 1/2" and 1" radius: Probably overthinking again... 

[Brian.Dixon]

A fillet as shown is a great idea, including a thin one on top.  Bottom one directs spray away from the seam between the rail and hull, and the top one helps water run off the side with no 'temptations' (thin cracks between rail and hull that you missed and just love to suck up water and hold onto it)

bd

[Rbob]

I got a little more done, I ended up putting 1/4" shoes I cut from Ipe on the strakes.  I had to fill the nail holes before adding the shoe's and I used a syringe to fill the holes from the bottom up.  I used G-Flex for the strakes and the Ipe shoes.

Did I say the Strakes and spray rails are time consuming?
Not as much done as I wanted but here are some more pics:

[Brian.Dixon]

You can get lost in the detail work (ask me how I know!) .... sometimes it's worth it, and sometimes not.  The syringe trick for filling holes from the bottom up works great and it prevents trying to 'smash' epoxy into a hole that's full of air and doesn't want to take it.  Finish by over-filling the fill dimples with fairing compound mix, then when cured, use a carbide scraper to scrape them off smooth.  I don't know of a faster or easier way to finish filling holes....

Brian

[Rbob]

I love the internet!  Found a great way to remove broken screws, 5 of them broke off 1/4" down in the hole of my spray rails.  Its a roll pin just hammer it onto the broken screw:

                 

[Brian.Dixon]

Wow ... that's a great idea!  I've never heard of it before ... all I've seen is "drill holes all around the broken screw and dig it out or use needle nose pliars".  The rol pin is WAY neater and cleaner, WAY less damage to fill... nice

Brian

[Rbob]

The process for me, I had used a countersink drill to install the #6 screws and on broken ones I enlarge the hole a little down to the broken off screw (used 1/4" drill for the 3/16 roll pin clearance) and took a 1/16" drill bit and drilled maybe 4 holes next to the broken screw to allow the roll pin to be hammered down a bit.  since the screws were set in epoxy I used a micro torch flame in the end of the roll pin which directs the flame right down the screw head only and slowly twist, if it slips just hit a couple more times to get a good grip.  In softer wood like fir etc I don't think you would need to drill around the base of the broken screw but meranti or harder wood I would.

Get several roll pins as they only work on 2-3 before losing the grip.

[tom e]

Has anyone tried using those Raptor plastic nails?   Raptor says, "composite staples, nails, and specialty fasteners can be cut and sanded without damaging router bits, saw blades and sanding belts, and provide complete corrosion resistance."

On my jumbo, i've left the screws in the rails, but they were silicon bronze and are buried but even if they do get wet, I'm not worried.  Having said that I think I'd use those plastic "nails" in a lot of places mostly for keeping things in the correct position while the epoxy cures, but then feel comfortable just leaving them in.

te