Author Topic: Bow bolt  (Read 28 times)

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Djeffrey

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Bow bolt
« on: July 11, 2019, 08:58:06 PM »
Im sure Im just missing it but where can I find the front eye bolt location in the plans?

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bow bolt
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2019, 08:37:38 AM »
Im sure Im just missing it but where can I find the front eye bolt location in the plans?

Page 20, Part 2 of 2 Construction Manual.  You drill the holes (and coat etc) after the hull is upright, the crash chamber built, and the anchor well installed.  You'll actually install the U-bolts later.  I quote the 'drill for bow eyes' section here for your reference:

"Prepare for Bow Eye Installation

Before things get too crowded up at the bow, now is the time to drill holes for your bow
eyes. I recommend two of 316 stainless steel U-bolt type bow eyes, each made from 3/8
stock, and long enough to go through the stem and bow structure to the inside of the boat.
The stem and bow structure is approximately 4 thick, so your bow eyes should have
straight shafts about 4-3/4 long or a little longer so they have room for washers and nuts.
Note that when bow eyes are specified that they specify the overall length of the whole
bow-eye (shaft length plus diameter of bend.) Ok, this boils down to needing about 7
long bow eyes. If in doubt, then buy longer and cut them off. If you use a plate between
the bow eye and the hull, or a plate-type washer inside the boat, youll need more length.
You may need to drill a tiny hole through the side panels from inside the boat to mark
where the upper bow eye goes. The lower bow eye goes just barely above the point
where the chines intersect the bow, and another goes as high as you can go without
interfering with the shelves and other structure at the top of the bow point. Noting that a)
a little too low on the upper bow eye is no big deal, and b) you must leave about 3 or 4
underneath the sheer deck for blocking this area is (strengthening for mounting the
anchor roller later on.) Drill slightly oversize, and drill from outside the boat to the
inside. Some people like to fit a jig on the bow (V-block with holes in it) to help
guarantee that you drill perpendicular to the line of the bow and straight in through the
center of the stem. I find that eye-balling it turns out pretty close and works fine. Drill
the 2 holes for the upper bow eye, and 2 for the lower bow eye, then test-fit the bow eyes
in the holes. Each time you have spare clear epoxy, use a pipe cleaner to apply another
coat of epoxy inside the holes. When you install the bow eyes (after painting), you will
caulk inside the holes, under the washers, and on top of the washers, then will clean up
with acetone after the eye bolts have been tightened up."


Brian

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Djeffrey

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Re: Bow bolt
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2019, 09:05:46 AM »
Thanks as always Brian. I knew it was somewhere. Any reason I cant put it in before I flip it, so I can use it as a pivot point when I turn over. Seems like a really strong point with as much glass that Ive layered on the bow.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bow bolt
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2019, 10:36:34 AM »
Thanks as always Brian. I knew it was somewhere. Any reason I cant put it in before I flip it, so I can use it as a pivot point when I turn over. Seems like a really strong point with as much glass that Ive layered on the bow.

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you're careful to mount the lower eye bolt above both the top of the crash well and the point where the top edge of the bottom panels meet the bow.  Top eye bolt should be under the shelves, above the floor of the anchor well - and consider leaving a little room under the shelves just in case you need to block in a bow or anchor pulpit to beef up the mount.  I find it easier to wait until the boat is upright and these other parts are installed (see photo on p.20).

Brian
><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>  The Great Alaskan - Professional grade offshore performance - Designed to be built by anyone! -
 http://www.glacierboats.com  ><((((> .`.><((((> .`.><((((>