Author Topic: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build  (Read 9970 times)

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Rbob

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Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« on: April 22, 2016, 11:27:55 AM »
I started my build in February, which some of you know.  Here are some pics, the build is slower than I want as I keep having life get in the way but that is to be expected.  I do not plan on launching this year but my goal is by next summer.
Here are some pics:  Build the jig with big wheels, 6x6 risers and jack supports in the middle for easy leveling.  (lesson from Cannon)


Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2016, 11:29:42 AM »
Took the handle off of the jack's and welded nuts in place.

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2016, 11:45:45 AM »
Wood working is so dusty, cant take it so I installed exhaust fan and put harbor freight dust collector right at the mixing station, pic does not show but I changed out the cheap bag on the dust collector for a
Wynn 35a filter, its good down to .5 micron.  I still wear a mask when mixing, sanding etc. z(3M Tekk P100 Particulate Filter) The fumed silica scares me.




Cannon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2016, 02:33:07 PM »
Great progress, looking real good!


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Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2016, 02:34:13 PM »
I can't remember if I mentioned midway support on the jig or not... I'll have to read my own construction manuals!  But was there an issue with sagging from weight on the jig?  If so, I'll update the construction manual to warn folks to use supports like you and Cannon did/are.  Those jacks look great, BTW.  I can tell that you'll do a great job on the boat ... Where will you be using the boat?  Columbia, Puget Sound ...will you go out of Westport?  Buoy 10?  Out over the Columbia bar?  Adrian Pau takes his GA out over the bar and had a lot of good things to say about the boat ..."it gets you home long after you wish you were home" kind of stuff.

Brian


Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2016, 10:36:31 PM »
Brian,

The jig does sag, maybe close to a 1/4" which I checked with the laser level all 4 corners and the middle .  I fish every where I can, Buoy 10, Westport, LaPush, 55 miles out after tuna and crabbing/ shrimping in the Puget Sound, I am less than 10 minutes from the launch at Zittles Marina and an hour from Westport.

On the stringers, since I am raising the sole 4" I am going to just add 4" of LVL up to the aft cuddy bulkhead.  I looked at the local Home Depot and Lowes and the hem fir sucks.  The LVL only adds 84lbs. I beat myself up over this, maybe could have raised the sole with the under deck structure.

 

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2016, 09:48:00 PM »
Saturday I installed the shelf molds on the jig, meticulously re-leveled all 4 corners and the center supports and double checked all the shelf molds for accuracy, put down a piece of yellow tape over the center marks and measured from the end of the molds,checked height of the molds at the extremities and made minor adjustments shimming the wheels / adjusting leveling jacks to > 1/16".

I build the temporary framing and installed double checking those for center alignment and level.  The tip of the shelf's fit nicely but for the heck of it I set up the laser again and after getting it back on center line with the molds I checked the tip of the shelf's and the joint was off to one side almost 3/16" so a minor for/aft adjustment to the starboard shelf and it fit perfectly. 

I have a question about the stem, making it out of LVL, which way would you orient the ply's, side to side so the bow eye bolt thru the all ply's of the LVL  or for/aft ?  My gut feeling is thru all the plys with the bow eye.

Nothing today accomplished, birthday party and a touch of stomach flu has me feeling like doing nothing.

Oh and caught a blunder, the temp framing I made 4" taller and installed and it dawned on me that adding 4" to the stringers before installing will accomplish the same thing so I will pull those off which is no big deal and cut the 4" back off of the temp framing.

some photos to follow, cant figure out how to resize.

     

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2016, 09:51:04 PM »
Pics:


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Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2016, 05:13:17 AM »

I agree... I think it's better to run the eye bolt through all the plies rather than through edge grain...  Although it would work either way.  Just use a big washer if going through edge grain.

Brian


Ed Snyder

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2016, 07:34:04 AM »

 cant figure out how to resize.

     

Bob if you have an editing program, go to 'resize' or 'crop'. Crop cuts the size of the pic - just eliminates everything outside of that area you want seen. Resize will just make the pic smaller an the file size smaller.
Another way is to look for resize for 'Web' posting - an old feature from those dialup days....
Not waving....... Drowning!

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2016, 03:41:33 PM »
My middle name should be dumb ass.  I did not think about those plies until after I cut....  and If I would have cut to length first before putting the 45 degree cut I would have had a spare, but hey that's what epoxy is for. 

Thanks Ed.  Just downloaded a image resizer.

Rbob

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2016, 03:57:24 PM »
I bought Alaska Yellow Cedar for the rear framing pieces, its rough sawn 2"x5" but beautiful strait grain wood.    Is it better to leave it rough for the epoxy to soak in or run it thru a planer / re-saw the sides prior to epoxy coating?   


   

Cannon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2016, 05:19:42 PM »
You are going to run through planer blades if you epoxy first. Cut, shape plane prior to coating with epoxy. The wood will soak up just as much epoxy and fairing will be easy.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2016, 05:29:31 AM »
Yes ...Planer blade slice wood cells open instead of smashing them shut like what sanding does.  That said, we're splitting hairs here ...I would just size and shape the wood to what you want and coat it, no need to worry about epoxy.  It'll stick and work fine :).  Because of the above, this is why I prefer cut (skilsaw jig or planer or router) plywood scarf joints over sanded, e.g. belt sander, scarf joints.  They're stronger.  But other than that, cutting v. sanding is no big deal on the rest of the boat ...and sanded scarf joints are good enough too, but I prefer 'cut' scarf joints anyway.

Brian

Ed Snyder

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Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Reply #14 on: April 29, 2016, 11:41:51 AM »
Gougen Bros I read somewhere saying to lightly disc sand at 30 deg to the flow of grain.....
Rips open those cells, it's what I do on hardwood, don't with softer wood, as you say Brian, and i experienced the same, epoxy sticks very well to planned wood.
What makes it stick great is as Brian has in the manual, give the wood soak time in epoxy, till those dull areas look glossy with wet resin, then glass, glue etc...
Love my disc grinder, 125mm - 5" x 16 grit disc's, panel beaters supplies best price here.... Chews through @ 9000 rpm
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