Author Topic: Can I build the transom first?  (Read 34515 times)

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Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #15 on: December 08, 2014, 02:31:08 PM »

Lastly, is there a reason for buying 10-oz x 38" fiberglass cloth?  Most websites only have 10-oz x 50".

   

Vincent, I used the 50" cloth and found that it laps over the chines and keel, giving you an added 20-oz to your build-up on these critical joints.

Actually ...that 50" wide stuff looks really perfect ...for what Dave said and for overall fit.  I should update the instructions and get the extra-duty treatment on the keel...

Brian


Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2014, 06:56:38 PM »
Thanks Dave.  Looks very nice.

Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #17 on: December 20, 2014, 07:09:22 PM »
Hello Brian
I am following your instruction to make the building jig.  I got the exact size of the LVLs from San Joaquin Lumber in Stockton area.  Cost about $200 for the wood.  Do I need to support the middle section or not?  Your manual said no need to support the middle.  One more thing.  Do we really need to use biaxial fiberglass?  It takes too much time to work on the bubbles.  Woven fiberglass is much easier to work with...  Thanks.  Vincent

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #18 on: December 20, 2014, 09:05:16 PM »
Yes, supporting the middle isn't required, but then again, it can't hurt.  Those beams are pretty strong.  As for the biaxial, the easiest thing to do is to wet it out in an 'epoxying box' ...I think I show it in the manuals.  If it seems to take too long or is too hard to wet out, work with shorter pieces and overlap them a couple of inches when put in the boat.  You'll get better with practice.  If the prior layer cures before you add the next section, use a carbide scraper to taper it to the hull where the next section will overlap it ...or fill the edge with thickened epoxy and then lay the next piece on (you don't have to wait for the thickened epoxy to cure and in fact, it's best if still soft).  Use a roller and plenty of epoxy.  That said, yes, you can substitute woven for the biaxial (assuming stringer-hull joint) but make sure you equal or exceed the total number of ounces of glass on the joint.  But I still would prefer to see you use the biaxial.

Brian


Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #19 on: December 22, 2014, 08:54:40 PM »
Thanks Brian.  I was hoping that you would say no support in the middle of the building jig for my case.  If I remembered correctly, you mentioned something about a minimum total of 30 oz of fiberglass is required.  Is 30-oz on one side of the wood or for both sides?  Thank you in advance.  Vincent     

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #20 on: December 23, 2014, 10:58:26 AM »
Thanks Brian.  I was hoping that you would say no support in the middle of the building jig for my case.  If I remembered correctly, you mentioned something about a minimum total of 30 oz of fiberglass is required.  Is 30-oz on one side of the wood or for both sides?  Thank you in advance.  Vincent     

...Each side.  Each fillet/glass joint that joins the stringers to the hull that is.

Brian

Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #21 on: December 25, 2014, 01:06:00 PM »
Merry Christmas to everyone.

Hello Brian
After I glued the bottom panel joints (A-B, B-C, C-D), do I need to place 6" fiberglass tape on each side of the joint before I transfer them to the building jig? I am guessing that fiberglass tape is not needed on the convex side at joints A-B and B-C because I have to put the E & F panels in later.   

Thanks Brian,
Vincent   

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #22 on: December 25, 2014, 06:09:50 PM »
The scarf joints, right?  Should be OK as-is, but putting a strip of 6-oz or 4-oz glass over the outside joint is welcome insurance, especially if you wish you had a few more people helping you out!

Brian


Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #23 on: December 26, 2014, 08:17:41 AM »
Hello Brian,
I think I am having a major problem here because the Fairbody side (Kneel) of the starboard is not lining up with the other side (referring to the C-bottom panel of the Starboard side).  It bulges about a quarter to the Post side.  The imperfection probably caused by human mistakes when setting CNC.  From the drawing, the Kneel lines of both sides should be straight starting around 160" from the very front (stem).  I am thinking about making it straight with my power planer.  I know the boat bottom is very critical so I really need your help here.  Any suggestion please?  Thanks Brian.  Vincent 

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #24 on: December 26, 2014, 09:06:45 AM »
You did the right thing in pausing and asking.  Let me say first, that the issue sounds minor.  I assume by 'quarter', you mean a quarter inch right?

Pictures are always in order when you have questions, just to make sure we're not answering the wrong questions etc.

When I find something that's off (and everybody has something off somewhere), I first try to determine why or what went wrong.  Like, how long the straight keel section is and comparing the two sides to each other.  The bottom panels should be mirror images of each other, and yes, according to Sheet 006C, from 60" (measured from the bow point) back, the keel should be a straight run. 

I would lay the two bottom panels on top of each other, inner face to inner face, clamp or screw them together so the bow points are aligned and the transom end is aligned, and then take a look ...you can also snap a chalk line along the keel / fairbody line to see where non-straightness exists.  By the time you get this far, you'll know what you need to do ...either fill gaps with epoxy when the panels are in the molds, or shave off a hump here and there, or both. 

In the mean time, don't sweat it ...The general philosophy is that at each step, you do two things, a) do the best you can on that step, and b) correct what went wrong in the last step.  In the end, nothing will be very far off and the boat will never know the difference ....and nobody but you will spot little imperfections that make it to the end.  :)

Brian

Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #25 on: December 26, 2014, 03:54:49 PM »
Thanks Brian.  Please see my attachment.  They scarfed the wrong side which resulted more wood on the kneel side and less wood on the chine side.  Can I go ahead and make the kneel side straight?  Thanks.  Vincent

Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2014, 05:05:36 PM »
Another option is to ask Chuck for the replacement.  What do you think?  Thanks

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #27 on: December 27, 2014, 05:50:10 PM »
If one side is correct and the other not quite, I would take a lot of measurements that show exactly what happened (a hassle, but helpful).  I doubt you want to wait on a shipment and have to build a panel all over again, but if you are sure there is a mistake there somewhere, then I'm certain that Chuck would like to know.  In the mean time, if one side is correct and the other is not a mirror image (when placed face to face like folding a book closed), note that you can fill gaps when building seams (keel/fairbody), and extra wood along the seam that meets the chine flat can be trimmed ...and gaps filled when adding the chine flat etc.

Brian

« Last Edit: December 28, 2014, 04:14:26 PM by Brian.Dixon »

Vicent59

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #28 on: December 27, 2014, 07:39:35 PM »
I am waiting for Chuck to give me the correct panel.  In the mean time, I am going to glue the chine and the sheer shelves together.  When I have the correct panel, I will build a temporary fence on my drive way then I'll build the boat as quick as I can.  Thanks Brian.  Vincent

Brian.Dixon

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Re: Can I build the transom first?
« Reply #29 on: December 28, 2014, 04:17:13 PM »
Go, go, go!   ;D