Where are you building a Great Alaskan?

[lljdavis]

I'm in the planning stage as well.   This looks like a 1000 hour project so realistically, I don't see getting to this until retirement ( 6 years from now).   I have purchased the GA plans and the Tolman book and I have been studying.   If nothing else, I've learned some techniques that I can use in my other wood working projects.  Because of our property in Toledo, Oregon (on a hill) ingress, egress and storage location is going to limit the boat size.   I might be able to get a 25 ft boat into my backyard.  This summer I plan to mock up a trailer (out of scrap wood/ scrap axle)  to see if it is possible. I've scaled it in Autocad, but nothing like to mock up to prove the concept.

Currently I'm outfitting my 19 ft Alumaweld Stryker for near shore fishing off Newport, OR.  Building a bow cover with plywood, epoxy and fiberglass, installing spare battery, radio, chart plotter, and second bilge pump.  I know it isn't an ocean boat, but it will work on the right days.

Larry

[Easygoing]

Boat #2 is in the planning stage.  I'm leaning towards a 25-26 ft GA that will be an open boat, self bailing floors, walk-around center pilothouse. It will have a leaning post and room for two people facing forewards with two people seated right behind the leaning post facing rearwards.  The front windshields will be foreward leaning. A simple machine for our delta waters and some offshore use.  I want to build this one fast so it can replace my current boat. Powered by a 150 or 175 ETEC.

I've attached a picture of what this boat will be similar to below. Any idea how many hours I can figure it will take to complete it with  a 20 foot finish?

[Grady300]

Boat #2 is in the planning stage.  I'm leaning towards a 25-26 ft GA that will be an open boat, self bailing floors, walk-around center pilothouse. It will have a leaning post and room for two people facing forewards with two people seated right behind the leaning post facing rearwards.  The front windshields will be foreward leaning. A simple machine for our delta waters and some offshore use.  I want to build this one fast so it can replace my current boat. Powered by a 150 or 175 ETEC.

I've attached a picture of what this boat will be similar to below. Any idea how many hours I can figure it will take to complete it with  a 20 foot finish?

My guess is 800-900 hours

[Ed Snyder]

Perth, Western Australia, although I've altered her a weeee bit, thinkin of calling her the Great Australian......
Hulls built, tanks in, times short, coffees great! What more can a bloke want?

[Grady300]

Perth, Western Australia, although I've altered her a weeee bit, thinkin of calling her the Great Australian......
Hulls built, tanks in, times short, coffees great! What more can a bloke want?

Looks like she is altered a double wee bit! looks like she will be the Awesome Great Australian !!!!!

[dshoe]

ed the boat is looking great

[Brian.Dixon]

You should see the ship that he's going to tow that dinghy with...   

bd

[Ed Snyder]

hahahahaha ok ok that's an old pic - and shes 30 ft or so, just that when I was building the bottom planks it was sad to cut the sheet of ply off to 28 ft, just to see where it took me, you know, I can always trim it back later....
So here's a pic of later......      

[Ed Snyder]

oops, did this first..... 

[Dave Collett-Paule]

Hi, All. Building a 26-footer in Homer Alaska.  This was yesterday...2nd layer forward bottom panel port side.

Dave in Homer

[Vicent59]

I wonder why this hull has many screws/nails on it?  I saw other hulls did not use screws/nails at all... sorry, I just want to learn.  thx.  Vincent

Hi, All. Building a 26-footer in Homer Alaska.  This was yesterday...2nd layer forward bottom panel port side.

Dave in Homer

[Dave Collett-Paule]

Vincent,  This is the method for laminating the two layers of the forward portion of the fairbody.  The bottom / fairbody is 3/4" thick, but you'd never get a single layer of 3/4" to bend and twist that way.  There is a thickened epoxy mixture between the two layers that you can see oozing out of the witness holes.  The screws and fender washers are the clamping system that sucks the two layers of plywood together. Once cured the screws are removed and the holes filled and sanded prior to fiberglassing.

You should order the manual and the plans - they explain it all...best money you'll ever spend.

Dave in Homer

[Brian.Dixon]

No nails or screws except for hardware and handrails.  I recommend one long heavy wood screw into the stem for the rubrails (each side) since damage to rubrails can cause them to swell..  Swelling wood can exert tremendous force on things and may pop the front end of the rubrails off.  I've only seen it happen once (and it was on a boat that *I* owned).  Otherwise, the boat has no metal in it at all.

Brian

[Ed Snyder]

Mmmmmmm.......

Except those broken off temp screws......
I mark the place these are, always find more with that new sharp blade.... 

[Brian.Dixon]

Mmmmmmm.......

Except those broken off temp screws......
I mark the place these are, always find more with that new sharp blade.... 

You're supposed to dig them out WHEN they happen!  And fill with epoxy... sheesh...

bd