Author Topic: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon  (Read 10907 times)

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Grady300

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GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« on: January 15, 2013, 11:20:26 AM »
After all the great comments on the fishyfish web site and Ifish web site I have basically finalized my design. The main changes from my last design post is I added the SS railing, raised the pilot house sole almost 4" for better forward visibility and to help keep all the tuna blood from running up in the wheelhouse. Where this deck meets the fishing deck I will slope it 1 1/2' to help draining out the over sized sculper I will make. I may make some changes as I go as this always seem to happen but when I get to that point I will (A) ask for more comments or (B) will just post pictures.
my epoxy showed up as din the Michels epoxy pump and expect fiberglass and wood this week. I will be gone for 8 days for the trade show in Orlando Florida I have to exhibit in every year and when I get back I will get to building. This was exactly my same start tome last year on my Tolman Wide Body build
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str8fishon

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2013, 10:21:28 AM »
Grady,
Love your design. It looks very similar to what I have in mind. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
cj

Cannon

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2013, 12:42:34 PM »
Grady, Who did your drawing?
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic was built by professionals.
Started building Paula J the 2nd Week of June 2015, finished her the second week of July 2016.

Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2013, 09:56:41 AM »
Cannon
I took Brains drawing from the construction manual and copied it and changed it how I wanted it more a less hard to explain the whole process it was a little tricky
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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2013, 07:04:42 AM »
Finally got started, spent 30 minuets cutting and scarfing the bottoms last weekend on the CNC. Got all the scarfs glued up to make the two bottom halves at one time on top of two 4'x24' long temporary work benches.  So far not including travel and loading time to get the bottoms home from my shop at work where I cut the parts to the house I have 4 1/2 hours in it and that includes cleaning up the scarfs and flipping the halves together preparing to drill holes for wiring them together.

Pre-cut parts allow you to build fast and fish sooner :) hope to glue the fairbody up tomorrow then I will post some pictures.

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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2013, 05:53:01 PM »
Finally got started last weekend on the GA got the bottoms cut, scarfed & glued into two long half sections( one of the pictures shows a step scarf where the 3/4" meets the 3/8"). Yesterday afternoon got the panels all wire tied together and slide them onto the building jig molds. Got up early this morning and tighten up all the wire ties, mounted some 2x4 snifters in the stern and trued everything up along with getting block up front to secure the critical chine dimension as per plans. Next mixed up some pecan wood flour and 20% silica peanut butter and proceeded to make the keel joint.
The glass schedule was 4" 10oz, 6" 12oz Biax then topped it off with 8" 10oz, all three layers of glass were applied wet on wet. Seamed to go much quicker than the Toman did even thought it was 7 feet shorter. once I started gluing it only took 3 1/2 hours to finish the seam. I took Brian's advise and made up a box to pre-wet the glass tape. I was amazed at how much easier and faster per-wetting the tape made the whole process go. You can see in one of the pictures below some 12oz Biax in the box ready to get epoxy on it. It was also nice because you could scrape off all the excess epoxy in the box and it was perfect, no floating glass over the fillet material.     
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lljdavis

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2013, 08:37:18 AM »
Nice work.  Thanks for posting.  I'll be following your progress.  Sure seems like there are a lot of Oregon builders.  I think Brian lived in Albany at one point. 

Larry

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2013, 12:35:24 PM »
Nice work.  Thanks for posting.  I'll be following your progress.  Sure seems like there are a lot of Oregon builders.  I think Brian lived in Albany at one point. 

Larry

FYI...

Larry ...I live in Alaska, as I have for the better part of a couple of decades (in and out, back in etc), but I was born in Portland, Oregon.  I also used to live in Corvallis, North Albany, and Salem in Oregon as well.  I'm in Knik, AK now (address is 'Wasilla' since that's where our post office is though) ...about 50 miles north and a bit west of Anchorage.  When I designed the GA, I had the Oregon/Washington coasts, BC, SE AK, and the rest of AK in mind...

Brian


lljdavis

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2013, 09:42:25 PM »
Brian,

I saw your Tolman build on a website that I found.   I live over in Toledo so the Yaquina is our back yard.   

Got a chance to visit Alaska last year.  Juneau, Anchorage, Denali, Wasilla, Seward, and Homer.   Great state. 

BTW, you really did a good job with the Great Alaskan plans.   Technical writing isn't the easiest thing to do.

Larry

Brian.Dixon

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2013, 02:04:30 PM »

Thanks, Larry ...

Brian


Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2013, 11:12:09 PM »
Just as I suspected the build is moving slow, been working 60-70 hours a week and the weekends have been very busy also.
Pictures below
1) I cut the scarf joint on an angle as the chines started to make the bend. I thought I would be able to line it up by putting the step scarf together and it did come out close when I dry fit it but you could move it just a bit at the joint and the scarf still seamed tight but at the opposite end 8 feet away it made a pretty big change. So I went to work and printed out a full size/length template on the plotter in one 42" x 28 foot sheet of paper. Taped the paper template to the work bench and glued up the chines on top of the template. Came out perfect, made a note to self
" be sure and send a template for the chines with any future GA kits sales".
2) Picture of both chines stitched onto the bottom ready to glue up. I decided to try zip ties rather then the wire I have always used in the past. another note to self "zip ties are MUCH easier"
3) Chines all glued to bottom shown with boards clamped across to keep them flat. It is important to wrap the ends with plastic to keep the epoxy from sticking or it will become a permanent part of the boat.
Hope to get more done in the next two weeks but this weekend is bust and it is my wife's birthday. i plan on heading over to Lincoln city next weekend to move the RV to the lot on the Siletz River for the summer. One more weekend down the drain as far as boat building goes. maybe I will take the Tolman over and do some fishing while I am there. Working from 5am to 5pm every day is really cramping my style.
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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2013, 09:10:51 PM »


21' 4" Wide Body Launch Oct. 2012


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Re: Great Alaskan 28' Build Thread by: West Coast Boat Works
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Continuing slowly on the GA build getting a little caught up at work and my wife was gone this weekend so I got a little done. I might get a little long in some of my explanations below but thought some might find it helpful.

Pic 1) Chines stitched to the bottom at the bow with zip ties and boards clamped on across to keep it all flat prior to applying the thickened epoxy with pecan wood flour. My typical peanut butter mix after mixing the epoxy good I add 15-20% Silica and about 10-15% of Cabisol by volume. Then comes enough Pecan wood flour until I get the desired peanut butter consistency. (this is for most structural joints) The main fillet inside the keel joint has fine chopped fiberglass in it also. All Transom joints will be the same mixture as the keel with lots of Biaxial tape.

Pic 2) View of bow after three layers of glass. First layer was 4' Biaxial 10oz. Second was 6" biaxial 10oz and the last was typical fiberglass tape 10 oz.

Pic 3) View from the stern with all three glass layers on and sanded ready for the 10 oz. glass to cover the entire inside of the bottom.

Pick 4) per-weted the bottom with two coats of epoxy waiting awhile between coats letting the epoxy soak into the Marantie BS 1088 marine ply good before applying the glass. Laying on the glass is easy if you get the wood wet enough to keep the glass in place as you roll it out. it also allows enough slip in the glass so you can easily slide it around into place with your hands with gloves on of course. Then after it is in place pour out more epoxy right onto the glass and use a medium soft squeegee to spread it all out. Makes very quick work of the whole job, both sides took two hours total to lay the glass.
It is very important to put a little pressure on the squeegee when making the last pass to take out any excess epoxy or your glass will float off the wood surface as they call it. This not only waist epoxy you also loose strength. I got two more coats of epoxy on one this morning and the last this evening. 3 coats is plenty to fill the weave in the glass and have a totally water proof bottom.

Brian's directions call for laying the glass side to side but I thought it was easier to run the length of the boat with the glass. This also gave me an extra layer of 10oz glass over the fairbody seam 
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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2013, 08:11:25 PM »
Still moving a little slow on building progress. Yesterday I had 4 friends come over and help me take the completed bottom with glass on the inside and 4" chines attached out door of the shop, set it on some tires and flipped it over. I had some 2x4's clamped across the chines to help flip the bottom and put it upside down on the building jig after putting it back in the shop.
I had planed on framing up the hull next but then realized I had about 8-10 hours of work to do cleaning out all the thickened epoxy that slipped through the joints between the bottom and the chine flats while gluing up that joint. Especially where the 3/4" chines go up around the first 3/8" layer on the bow. You can see in the photo a how a dremal tool and a stiff wire brush in a cordless drill make quick work of this task.
The joint needs to be clear of drips and build up of thickened epoxy prior to applying the second bow layer for a good fit to make it 3/4" thick same as the bottom. You can see the step scarf joint where the second 3/8" thick layer of ply will attach the the 3/4" bottom. The bend in the front is to much for a single 3/4" layer so it takes two 3/8" layers glued one at a time with thickened epoxy between the two layers. The second layer goes on later its just easier to clean up the joints now.
I also got the rest of the fair body seam filled so it can be faired and ready for some heavy glass work over this major joint.
I got the main transom parts cut out and the gunnel shelves all glued up and scarfed together. Most builders use framing lumber for the shelves as with the kits I sell for these boats I'm using Boise Cascade LVL Versa-lam engineered beam stock. These will never warp, twist or break because of some bad grain or a Knott in the wrong spot.
The small rectangle holes in the transom are 1 1/4" x 3 1/2" long that will have a fiberglass sleeve made and inset into the hole this is where the bottom of my motor well will be. Thought I would go with a little larger drain here for backing down against the current to help drain water quicker out of the well just in case. I also plan to make some custom sculperes on the CNC like 2"x 6" for the self bailing deck that should let a good flow of water out should it be necessary.
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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #13 on: July 09, 2013, 05:27:39 AM »
Made my stringers the old fashioned way they were too long to fit on the CNC. Although I did make two set of templates on my CNC using a puzzle joint to attach the three 8' pieces it took too get the template long enough. I used these to mark the curve on the bottom of the stringer as well as the inside lofting dimensions. Worked great took maybe 5 minutes to mare out the lofting. Got out the skill saw and power planer and cut them all out. It only took 45 minuets to make each stringer with the aid of my templates easy piezy.
Made my stringers from LVL 2 1/2" higher than the plans called for, from the point of where the aft wheelhouse door would go I sloped the stringers aft to the transom 1 1/2" for good water drainage off the deck and to aid in washing it down while sitting at rest. This also gives me a little more height for the gas tanks and puts my sculpers a bot more above the waterline.
Filled all the imperfections on the face layer of the stringers with thickened epoxy then state per-Glassing prior to installing them on the building jig.
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Grady300

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Re: GA 28' Build Starting in Centeral Oregon
« Reply #14 on: July 09, 2013, 05:35:12 AM »
Got a little progress done today after not doing anything for a few weeks. Worked on the main stringers a bit more prepping to finish the pre-glassing.

Got the bottom lifted up with the chain hoist. finished up the gunnel jigs to set on the building jig. Then placed gunnels on the building jig to see how it all fit. The proof in the pudding is when the gunnels are placed on the jigs how good the joint fits where the two meet up at the bow. Picture perfect but then the CNC always cuts perfect. The gunnels are made from 1 3/4" LVL planed down to 1 1/8" using 3 scarf joints. They were so long I made a paper template drawn with cad and plotted out in one long piece of paper. I assembled the gunnels on top of the template to insure they followed Brian's lofting dimensions exactly. After seeing how well this worked I will be supplying paper templates for this with any kits for the GA I sell.
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