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Holy moly!  That's a lot of fairing work!  You'll be proud of it when it's done though ... your work on this boat is outstanding!

Brian

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Last post by Rbob on June 12, 2017, 02:30:00 PM »
update,

I had a marathon session of sanding and adding more fairing compound.  The fairbody seam and the seam where my glass overlapped the inner chine needed more fill after all that sanding so I added more.

i know its under the boat and probably will never see it but... ADHD took over.

My first pass after the glass was micro balloon fairing mix and it sands not great I might say.  I used the rest of my Quickfair on this final pass and I had to make a bench mix  for the last 3-4 ft.

I used mainly glass bubbles and 1 scoop of the fairing compound mix just because it had some cabosil.

It spreads like crap compared to quickfair, maybe I made it too thick but I will be ordering more quickfair for the rest of the job..

 
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I was buying paper from one of my woodworking suppliers, ran out and ran to Lowes. Their bulk brand held up better than the German brand I was using, I go through lots of paper so when I find a locally available brand that is cost effective I'm pretty happy! The brand (Diablo) they sell at Home Depot sucks!

I haven't looked into Lowes for awhile ... Didn't know they had good sandpaper (thx)

Brian

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Last post by Cannon on June 05, 2017, 09:52:55 PM »
I was buying paper from one of my woodworking suppliers, ran out and ran to Lowes. Their bulk brand held up better than the German brand I was using, I go through lots of paper so when I find a locally available brand that is cost effective I'm pretty happy! The brand (Diablo) they sell at Home Depot sucks!
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Good to know that the Bosch paper is so much better.  One of the defining differences between a random orbital made by Fein versus others is the short height of the hook-n-loop fasteners.  It keeps the paper smooth, flat, and not much 'jiggle' on the hook-n-loop material ... the paper is much more effective when it's smooth, flat, AND moving as it should.  It sounds like the Bosch paper helps in most of these same ways and is very effective.  Got it on MY list for my next paper purchase.... :)  Thanks!

You took just the PERFECT amount of epoxy off on that glass.  Anyone can see how much that'll help the fill coat (that follows) fill the glass.  It'll take much less epoxy (fewer coats) and will be much smoother ... you're doing excellent work!

Brian

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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Last post by Rbob on June 04, 2017, 10:59:46 AM »
I gave it a quick sand with some #120 grit Bosch sandpaper. This stuff rocks, it is a heavy weight paper, not what you usually find.  This 120 sands better than the 80 grit I used which was Carborundum. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FDCKQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will try to add a short video.
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Nice shrimp!  Makes me hungry!

Keep up the good work on that boat... really looks great!

bd
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General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Bob from Olympia, 28 GA build
« Last post by Rbob on June 02, 2017, 08:55:29 AM »
Shrimping is good:

On the fairing compounds, We are on the same page, I was comparing what a bitch to sand the phelonic microbaloons were compared to microsperes (quickfair).

I did do a quick sand #120 on the and it smoothed right out, I will get a pic and post Sunday.
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I'm surprised at the remark on microballoons and silica ... And, I think you meant microspheres.  The white fairing mix is glass microspheres and the purple is phenolic microballoons... confusing terms.  In any case, I find the opposite to be true.  Microspheres (white, glass) needs less silica to make it non-sagging (thixotropic) and feathers out more nicely ...when goopy or when cured and sanded.  I prefer it.  Microballoons (purple, phenolic), doesn't seem to want to become non-sagging without adding more silica than I prefer, which makes it harder to sand.  It doesn't appear to produce as smooth a finish or as fine an edge as the glass microspheres.  That's my impression anyway, and admittedly, it's a subjective kind of thing and someone else may believe the opposite to be true.

In general, I will do my earliest fairing with microballoons, or anything that will be glassed over with additional glass is faired with microballoons.  Once the boat is sheathed and faired once with microballoon, then I will fair with the white glass microspheres ... intending it to be a final fairing.  If I've "got religion" on the finish, I have used the WEST System plastic mini-fibers for fairing in pin-sized scratches prior to primer and paint.  I think System III sells plastic minifibers now too.... but since they can shrink in heating/cooling cycles and can 'print' underlying layers, it's best to use it for just the finest scratches ... and it feathers out beautifully.

Your close-up fiberglass pic is perfect for showing the pattern of bumps that results on glass right after it's first cure.  You should take another pic of the glass after a light sanding with 100-grit to show how it just takes the tops off (without getting into the glass) and produces a surface that is much easier to fill with a fill-coat of epoxy.

How'd the shrimping go?

bd

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