Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - BobC

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: BobC's build in Virginia
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:05:42 AM »
more

2
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: BobC's build in Virginia
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:04:28 AM »
more

3
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: BobC's build in Virginia
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:03:23 AM »
more..

4
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: BobC's build in Virginia
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:02:23 AM »
continued..

5
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: BobC's build in Virginia
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:01:26 AM »
I flipped the boat Sat. eve.  Tonight I will get her on cradles with some wheels and then the interior work can begin.  I flipped the boat using lift points at bow and transom.   I was very impressed with how balanced it is.  The level is right on the bubble for port/starboard balance.  going to check fore and aft tonight when I put it on cradles.

6
Hey guys, good to be back and see everything up and running on the new site.  Will post some new pictures of the progress over the next few days.

7
I've made some progress. The starboard side is hung and ready for glass and the bow is all shaped out.  Here is a peek at what she looks like now.  You can see the modifications that I have made added a little more shape which will make for a little more work fairing but I like how it looks.  I will post up a pituce from the back soon.  I added a little bit of roundness aft for 3 reasons.  1. My logic says it will make the panels slightly more stiffer than just being flat, 2. It will give me a little more space for the rod holders to come through the bottom of the shelf before hitting the sides of the boat and 3. I like the look a little better than just flat panel dory flare.  To achieve this, I just added a peice of 2x4 to the end of the Transom board that was the shape I wanted.   The side stiffners will have a similar curve although the sides are now very stiff and barely need them.

8
Looking good Rob.  Slow but steady wins the race...  I had that same gap at the chine on my second bow layer.  I think it is required ;)...  No problems filled with thickened Epoxy and rolled on.

9
Canon,
 I'm calculating 7-1/2" from bottom of keel at center to chine line and then you said your waterline is about 8" above the bottom of the chine when loaded.  That gives you a calculated draft of 15.5" minus motor and skeg.  Based on dimensioned drawings for the Yamaha F225, you have a little over 17" from the anticav plate and the bottom of the skeg. Your max draft should be 32.6" with motor down and anticav plate even with bottom of the boat.  you should be safe at 3'.

The thing that always worries me in bar crossings is depth finders are usually giving an average depth and the trough between swells is what can get us in trouble as it can be significantly lower than the average depth being shown.  I wouldn't like that narrow entrance although it does define the channel pretty well.  LOL

I will primarily be doing my ocean entrances out of Oregon Inlet, NC which is notorious for shifting bars and getting ugly, sometimes you would think you were in a washing machine, (lots of youtube videos of it) and Barden Inlet which really isn't too bad as it is protected by the Cape and the Bight.  I'm hoping the boat will draft shallow enough to be able to use the new Drum Inlet which lets me run up the Sound and then puts me directly on the fishing grounds north of Cape Lookout saving a good bit of running time and miles but that remains to be seen how that works out.  Sometimes the sound can be worse than the open water as it is very shallow in spots.  I will need to run it at low tide at low speed and get a good GPS track before I would try it loaded on a trip.

10
Is this a lot of squeeze out:
1 quart, seems like a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, lots of squeeze out.  Reminds me of the movie National Lampoons Xmas vacation.  "Lots of sap" scene.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJxJakcwBOM

LOL.  Lots of parallels there including his hands sticking to the book pages that night. I can relate.  I'm sitting here trying to get some epoxy off my glasses as I write this.  Epoxy seems to make its way into the darnedest places. 

I believe Renn had the best answer to the problem.  Have plenty of other parts and pieces lined up that need some epoxy so you can use the leftover squeeze out, like filling screw holes etc. so it doesn't all go to waste.



11
Transom epxied in place.  Check that one off...

12
Just epoxied the transom to the bottom tonite.  The transom is no joke.  I am glad I have manhandled it for the last time.  I'm glad it fit well.  Mine was built using Fir.  I imagine Meranti would be beyond the pale for one man assembly without some real innovation. :D

It's funny, I was just thinking about when to do the drain plug.  I think I am going to wait as well so as brian says, I can get it as close to the bottom of the bilge as possible.

That stem connection looks real nice Rbob.   Looks like you are making good use of LVL material.  She's gonna be a stout craft when you are done. 

13
Stringers are now epoxied in, ready to be glassed.  Transom is dry fit to the fairbody and ready to be epoxied tonite. I may delay in order to install the transom drain plug tubing and get it epoxied in well, still debating.



14
Returned home today with my load of salvaged lumber off the old Trumpy.  Pulled a good bit of deck planking and trim work.  Still trying to put a finger on exactly what all I have but it is some pretty stuff.  Will post some pics soon.  I think it might become useful for a little veneer and trimwork on the interior but want to keep it light and not weigh it down.

15
When have others installed secondary stringers?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5