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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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Never leave home without them...wife hates me to take them when we go out for dinner though  ;D

:D ;D :D ;D

The tuna are in, but they are running deep, no porpoising and no jumpers. Down by Brookings it is wide open though!

Sounds like a plan!  You've got downriggers, right?


AWESOME!   Finally, eh?  Man, I hate being laid up ... makes me grumpy and then everyone's mad at me and you can't do anything.  Awesome to be released and back in action!  How's the tuna water?  Been keeping track, watching how close the warm water's coming in?  I haven't looked .... but this is August.  Maybe you can go get you some!


General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Foam Floatation
« on: August 17, 2017, 06:35:58 AM »
Well .... there is no need for a black and white type of answer.  If you cannot find enough space to float the boat in spite of a full swamping up to the gunnels... then what's wrong with floating the boat if the swamping has not completely filled the boat?  Wouldn't you want a boat that resists rolling over if it's got water in it and is rocking too far from side to side?  That 'not enough' amount of flotation in the gunnels might just be what keeps you upright long enough to open scuppers and get the boat underway to start sending water out over the sides and stern where it belongs.  And there's nothing wrong with making a boat float a little higher if YOU are the one that has to hang onto it while you wait for help, no?  Anyway .... boats are full of trade-offs.  Go forth with good understanding and make your best bets along the way, and enjoy the sun, wind, and water.... and the fish blood as soon as you can manage!


General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: 28' 6" GA
« on: August 16, 2017, 07:58:06 AM »
It's nice on those 28+ footers how much pilot house AND cockpit you get... lots of room.

I like your shed too ... was it expensive to build?


General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Foam Floatation
« on: August 16, 2017, 07:55:29 AM »
Wood boats float.  Glass, and aluminum don't.  Fuel does.  The bottom line is that most of your boat will refuse to sink, but you have a big anchor bolted onto your transom that'll make your boat sink on one end, and stick the bow up on the other.  My philosophy is like Cannon's ... better to limp home than float away in a raft after giving up on your pride and joy boat.  Bottom line?  Try to get flotation into the stern, preferably higher, to keep that motor head out of the water ... sometimes, the gentlest forward motion is all it takes to drive water back out of the scuppers and get a boat emptied out.  Flotation up high and skegs on the bottom (to grip on) are sometimes 'just enough' to turn a boat back upright.  Noodles or foam (that allows drainage!) under the decking help reduce the volume of water that your boat can carry ... less to shed is good.  These things give you a chance.  The difficult thing is how to get up-high flotation into the stern?  Hidden chambers in the corners, foam up under the gunnels or long chambers built under the gunnels etc.  You have to be creative.  Some types of foam, BTW, are smooth and can be painted, but are unsuited for constant submersion ... these can be glued-in (backed with screws and washers ... lots of force on them during capsize) and used in place like underneath gunnels since they aren't submersed.  We used to have a foam dealer in our neighborhood that sold every type of foam available on the planet  - their whole business - and they were the ones that first told me about this foam, and about sealed-cell polyethylene which refuses to absorb water or fuel or oil, even if submersed for years.  There are good answers out there, but you'll have to do some phone calling and be creative on how to work the foam into your boat project.


Holy moly!  That's a lot of fairing work!  You'll be proud of it when it's done though ... your work on this boat is outstanding!


I was buying paper from one of my woodworking suppliers, ran out and ran to Lowes. Their bulk brand held up better than the German brand I was using, I go through lots of paper so when I find a locally available brand that is cost effective I'm pretty happy! The brand (Diablo) they sell at Home Depot sucks!

I haven't looked into Lowes for awhile ... Didn't know they had good sandpaper (thx)


Good to know that the Bosch paper is so much better.  One of the defining differences between a random orbital made by Fein versus others is the short height of the hook-n-loop fasteners.  It keeps the paper smooth, flat, and not much 'jiggle' on the hook-n-loop material ... the paper is much more effective when it's smooth, flat, AND moving as it should.  It sounds like the Bosch paper helps in most of these same ways and is very effective.  Got it on MY list for my next paper purchase.... :)  Thanks!

You took just the PERFECT amount of epoxy off on that glass.  Anyone can see how much that'll help the fill coat (that follows) fill the glass.  It'll take much less epoxy (fewer coats) and will be much smoother ... you're doing excellent work!


Nice shrimp!  Makes me hungry!

Keep up the good work on that boat... really looks great!


I'm surprised at the remark on microballoons and silica ... And, I think you meant microspheres.  The white fairing mix is glass microspheres and the purple is phenolic microballoons... confusing terms.  In any case, I find the opposite to be true.  Microspheres (white, glass) needs less silica to make it non-sagging (thixotropic) and feathers out more nicely ...when goopy or when cured and sanded.  I prefer it.  Microballoons (purple, phenolic), doesn't seem to want to become non-sagging without adding more silica than I prefer, which makes it harder to sand.  It doesn't appear to produce as smooth a finish or as fine an edge as the glass microspheres.  That's my impression anyway, and admittedly, it's a subjective kind of thing and someone else may believe the opposite to be true.

In general, I will do my earliest fairing with microballoons, or anything that will be glassed over with additional glass is faired with microballoons.  Once the boat is sheathed and faired once with microballoon, then I will fair with the white glass microspheres ... intending it to be a final fairing.  If I've "got religion" on the finish, I have used the WEST System plastic mini-fibers for fairing in pin-sized scratches prior to primer and paint.  I think System III sells plastic minifibers now too.... but since they can shrink in heating/cooling cycles and can 'print' underlying layers, it's best to use it for just the finest scratches ... and it feathers out beautifully.

Your close-up fiberglass pic is perfect for showing the pattern of bumps that results on glass right after it's first cure.  You should take another pic of the glass after a light sanding with 100-grit to show how it just takes the tops off (without getting into the glass) and produces a surface that is much easier to fill with a fill-coat of epoxy.

How'd the shrimping go?


Glad you are going with the overlap.  That's my preference.

I know that some find it easier to fill the weave in glass with some fairing compound mixed into the epoxy, but I generally don't ... but I also don't use heavier than about 10-oz as a last layer of glass, so the weave doesn't need a lot of filling.  What I do is to first sand the cured glass lightly with a random orbital and around 100-grit paper - but lightly, just enough to smooth the epoxy a tad without getting into the glass.   If you DO touch a bit of glass here and there, don't worry about it, just try not to.  I find that with a light sanding like that, that the weave will fill much easier with straight epoxy rolled on.  That said, I do know that some swear by using some fairing compound - I just haven't found it necessary myself yet. 

And yes, it's OK to fill the weave before you add the side glass, and I do recommend it to some degree ... noting that you don't need to work so hard on it that the weave is finished completely.  After adding the side glass, you'll need to do similar work anyway.  Just fill enough of the weave for the next layer of glass to lay on it smoothly and call it good.  Do your 'finish work' later.


Re side panel to bottom panel glass and butt joint - You can use a butt joint, which is to say, the side panel glass just lays edge to edge with the bottom panel glass that overlaps up the sides.  I generally never use butt joints with glass, since you often have to fill and sand a thin gap between the edges anyway.  It's a little more sanding to overlap an inch or two, but easy to reach anyway.  You can decide....

You're doing fantastic work, BTW.  The boat is really going together beautifully!  Way nicer than what I do ... LOL...


Hey guys, good to be back and see everything up and running on the new site.  Will post some new pictures of the progress over the next few days.

That would be great!  I was wondering how you were getting along .... :)


when you say launch do you mean almost ready to flip...because thats getting closer atleast..

Hey ... I love the updates!  "who will launch soon" sounds pretty subjective to me ... Show us your boat!


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