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Messages - Brian.Dixon

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1
Are nitrile gloves good for all this boat stuff. Epoxy?

Nitrile provides a solid barrier that doesn't let anything through, and solvents or epoxy doesn't harm it.  Mechanics use them virtually everywhere.  Buy the ones that are long and go at least 2 or 3 inches up your wrists.  I find that you tend to get epoxy on your wrist if you just use the regular ones.  If glassing or epoxying over wide surfaces (or hard to reach areas) that you might bump with your arm while reaching, get Tyvek sleeve guards - the ones that are like a tube and have elastic on both ends:

Tyvek Sleeves

Long Cuff Nitrile Gloves


Brian

2
Whatís everyone using for cleaning sticky resin and hardener from tools?

Acetone works best, but wear nitrile gloves rather than latex.  Latex 'breathes' enough to let epoxy-laden acetone come through and soak into your skin.  No need to develop a sensitivity to epoxy .. right?  :D

Brian


3
For informational purposes:   The epoxy was still very far from cured.  I used my scraper and scraped it back down to bare wood in about a half hour.  The end of the scarf that looks completely epoxy starved was not part of the joint as that panel is wider the the other. 
   some Things Iím gonna do different this time.  Use foam roller instead of chip brush to wet scarf.   I like the way the foam roller puts down a consistent coat without over doing it.  Easy to recoat as well.  I can actually see the drier grain slurp up the epoxy.  More squeeze out, will also move scarf to a reinforced part of table so I know itís good and flat and has something solid under it.   Vacuum all future epoxy parts. 
One thing I cannot control is temperature.  It cured as long as other parts just did t work.  MAybe if I get in the shop today and keep the heat up for most of the next three days it will get a better start on curing.  I also layed The shelf blanks lamination on top of the freshly glued scarf.  It turned out just fine.

Sounds perfect.  Put a couple of heat lamps on the joint for a couple of days....

Brian


4
Several points ... first, the glass that'll be on either side of the joint has very high tensile strength that would prevent such a breakage, so not to worry.

Second, it's hard to judge the situation from my perspective.  For example, tests that I've done (and others have done) have failed to break the joint and breaks occurred on either side of the joint instead.  So why did yours break in the joint itself?  Dunno ... the possibilities are many.  Dust, sanded instead of planed scarfing (sanding seals wood cells, cutting leaves them open to wick epoxy into them).   Was each surface of the joint precoated carefully, repeatedly (brush) until the whole joint remained wet looking after letting it sit for 10 minutes?  This guarantees that the epoxy has wicked into the wood cells as far as it'll go.  Was the joint then filled with thickened epoxy right away or after the epoxy that you used to saturate the joint has cured?  Right away is best.  How thick was the thickened epoxy?  It needs to be soft enough to flow well inside the joint as it's pressed together, thereby acting as a gap-filling mix.  If the epoxy is too thick (too dry) and combined with not enough saturation of the wood cells prior to assembly, then it's possible that the wood itself drew epoxy out of the joint, leaving a too-dry mixture behind - which will be weaker.  Was the joint pressed together hard enough to squeeze all the epoxy out of some areas?  And for full strength, the epoxy should be kept warm (room temperature) and allowed to cure for at least a week before testing.  Hard to say.  I prefer to use a plane to cut scarf joint (no sanding), vacuum the dust out of each face of the joint, saturate very well before gluing, use a soft silica/wood flour mix for the gluing, and I want to see squeeze-out around the whole joint, but leave it loose enough that you know you're not squeezing all the epoxy out.  I avoid stressing the joint at all until it's been glassed.

To fix a busted joint, scrape and/or sand to remove all lumpy epoxy remains until the glue faces are smooth again, then plane off a little more to open up the wood cells, vacuum well, then saturate and glue as described.  Don't stress the joint until well cured and handle it gently until you can get some glass on it.  If no time to glass the whole thing, then just glass a 12" to 18" long strip of glass tape over the joint on each side and that'll reinforce it until you finish glassing later.

Hope that helps :)

Brian

5
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 13, 2019, 02:14:48 PM »

:D


6
It bought ebond.  They use r and l carriers.  The local carrier I already forgot about.  Fiberglass supply is who I am buying the glass and fillers from.  Barry at ebond seems to be the go to guy.  He is not who I initially dealt with,  but I ultimately did get ahold of him for some technical q and a stuff that the original sales guy couldnít help with.  I would say donít deal with anyone except Barry.  He was also name dropped on the other forum.

Good to know.  I've heard Barry's name elsewhere as well....

Brian


7
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 13, 2019, 11:50:07 AM »
Yup,   No answer.  Straight to voicemail.

I just called Fiberglass Supply - They answered right off, said that due to the heavy snow, that it's been a little hit and miss over there and they've been under staffed.  Try again today....

PS: I've never had any kind of customer support issues with them (in 15 years of doing business with them).  I'm sure they're being accurate when they mention snow related issues .... the western Washington area has been going through a lot of difficulties with these last couple of storms.

Brian


8
Man, it seems like the better the Economy seems, the crappier service gets.  My epoxy was lost for 5 days in a whse in Atlanta.  Then that carrier passed it off to a local carrier that never delivered it.  After kicking rocks all day I called them to find they did deliver it, with a signature.  Just so happens it wasnít me who signed, and they didnít deliver it to the address on the bill of lading.   Now for whatever reason I canít get ahold of my fiberglass  supplier.   No one answers the phone and email can take days and Iím too dumb to find what I need on thier website.  End of rant

What brand epoxy, what dealer, what delivery services?  Might help someone else to know.... sux, guy.  Sorry to hear about all the hassles.... that's definitely not normal.

Brian


9
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 13, 2019, 04:59:32 AM »
I did a search and couldnít find any references to that product.  I tried to call them and there was a voicemail only.  Strange?!  I was hoping to have some on hand this weekend.  Whatís another week right

Fiberglass Supply?  Did you call their main number?  509-493-3464  http://www.fiberglasssupply.com

They definitely carry milled glass fiber...

Brian

10
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 12, 2019, 06:26:06 PM »
Thanks for the response guys, one last thing.....for now. Raka sells chopped glass strand that is 1/4 inch wide 1-3 long. I would not call that fine. Should I get this somewhere else? They also sell micro fibers, is that what I want?

Dj

No ... You want the fine stuff:

  http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/filler/MilGlsFib.pdf


Brian

11
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 12, 2019, 07:44:50 AM »
Thanks Brian. Can you also tell me how many pounds 5 gal of colloidal silica is. How many pounds one gal of glass mini fibers are. How many pounds two gal of phenolic micro balloons are. Raka only sells by the pound not gallons.

Dj

Good question!  I don't know of anybody that lists the fillers by their weight AND says what size container that they ship in.  For the fluffy stuff such as microspheres, microballoons, and the silica, I wouldn't order the 5 lb size unless you don't mind having extra.  If I recall, the 5 lb size comes in a pretty big bag ... as Todd said, "a couple of pillows" in size.  The fillers go a long way too.

Brian


12
Either is fine.  Low ratios like that are good.  The higher ratio stuff like WEST System 5:1 and 7:1 are fine too .... but not as forgiving of small measurement errors.

Brian

13
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: Mat or no mat
« on: February 11, 2019, 02:53:56 PM »
Ordering some biaxle tape. Do I need mated or no mat? Tx

No matting.  Matting is just omnidirectional 'fill'.  This boat only uses regular woven fiberglass and biaxial fiberglass :)

Brian

14
Glued the chine flats, one bottom panel scarf, and 1 forward section of of shelf blanks.  I learned I would much rather layout and make cut pieces than mix and sling epoxy.  Iím not good at waiting for stuff to set up and dry.  Anyway

 What is the harm in laminating the transom parts and glassing it after assembly?

I already routed the splash well notch into the motor board.  How do I deal with glassing it?   

How thick should a creamy mixture of silica thickened epoxy be?  Is this another one of those. CLose is close enough deals again?

I know how you feel ... building a boat is like being in the military.  Hurry up and wait!

There's nothing wrong with glassing the transom after it's been made.  As far as the splash well notch goes, you can glass right over it like it's not there, then after the epoxy greens up a bit, use a razor blade to slice along the top and bottom of the slot to remove the strip of glass that spans over it.

Creamy?  Like the consistency of stirred yogurt or a tiny bit thinner ... not runny like unthickened epoxy, and not so thick that it'll stand on it's own.  When gluing large surfaces together, you want the epoxy to both flow and be gap-filling when you press the two pieces together.  And .... close is close enough! :)

Brian


15
General Discussion about the Great Alaskan / Re: A house for my GA
« on: February 10, 2019, 09:12:47 AM »
It's all snowy and cold here.  I did some messing around in the shop this weekend.   Outside Temps in the mid to upper 30s and low 40s during the day.  With the pellet stove burning and a fan in the rafters I got the far end of the building to 60 degrees.   5 minutes with the diesel salamander and Temps to 70.   I did get it up to 80 in there and the windows in my office started to sweat.   I put a thermometer in there so I finally know what's going on.   I'm calling the stove a success.

That's awesome!  It'll really extend your shop time during cooler weather.  I love heat from wood ... any kind of wood.  Something about it is just more natural, maybe it's the fact that it's radiant heat or something .... but I like it!

Brian


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